Three Days In Nanaimo

Three Days In Nanaimo

After our seven day trip to Alaska, we rented a van in Vancouver. We then headed across the Georgia Strait by BC Ferry from Horseshoe Bay, located on the North shore of Vancouver, arriving at Departure Bay which is located in the heart of downtown Nanaimo.



We had arrived in the early afternoon. We decided to cruise around to get a feel for the place. Nanaimo is about 100 km north of Victoria, or roughly one quarter of the distance between Victoria, at the southern tip of the island, and Port Hardy at the northern end. It is a beautiful town, much like the rest of the Island, but is populated chiefly with retirees from across Canada, who seem to prefer their privacy to tourism.




There are few if any signs to direct the uninitiated to the secret oasis' that are often hidden from the casual observer. If you want to see the sights, you have to be willing to get off the beaten track and explore. We found secluded beaches that one had to walk some distance to, even from the parking lots. There where incredible homes overlooking the Strait, and many smaller islands like Newcastle (it has an interesting history since it was the site of the first coal mine in the mid-Island, eventually leading to a thriving coal industry that ultimately led to the city that exists today), which we could see from our hotel, The Moby Dick. Our hotel was located just a few blocks south of the ferry terminal. Beautiful gardens graced many of the grand and stately homes, however, many of the older estates have grown immense hedges to shield themselves from prying eyes. Sometimes it felt like we were driving through long tunnels, except that these tunnels were created from trees.



Nanaimo is very spread out, and its size is deceiving. You can drive through it on the Nanaimo Parkway (a bypass route), in about ten minutes. There are plenty of malls for the shopper, and an abundance of great restaurants for the discerning palate. As you might well imagine, fresh seafood is often the plate of the day!



After we got settled into our hotel, we visited with my brother and his family; not having them live close by makes it difficult to stay in touch. Each visit is like meeting an old friend you haven't seen for many years; there is plenty to catch up on, but each finds the other has grown farther apart. It is sad to lose touch with one's own family.



On our second day in Nanaimo, Friday, we all piled into the rented van and drove north up island a few miles, to a town, I think was called Parksville, where there is a large public area: Parksville Municipal beach. There we stopped and had breakfast. After which we headed west on Highway 4, but before we reached Port Alberni, Darrell directed us to turn off on a side road which headed us south. We wound up going to the top of one of the many small mountains on the island. This one was called Little Mountain, just outside Parksville in Errington (near Coombs), that split the Island into two very different and diverse coasts. At the peak, I stood at the very precipice and viewed some of the wildest forests anywhere. It was incredible. What I could not believe was that without our guide, my brother, we would never have seen it, nor would we have been aware that this view had existed; again there had been no street signs to lead us to it! I think there's several good reasons it's not marked for tourists; the road is too steep and narrow for heavy traffic, it's a residential area, and it's very dangerous at the top; there were no barriers to prevent someone from falling to their death at the edge of that cliff!


The west coast of the Island is very rugged and much less inhabited. It also has fewer roads and many of the inhabitants still depend on boats to get around; fishing being the mainstay of the region. The eastern shoreline has a more moderate climate and therefore much more inhabited. If you continue west along highway 4, you eventually wind up at an extraordinary national park known as the Pacific Rim, with its miles long "Long Beach." There are two towns, one at each end of Long Beach, Ucluelet (U-clue-let) at the south end, and picturesque Tofino at the North. It was in Tofino where Nadine and I spent a week of our honeymoon, and where we went salmon fishing and saw our first "free" (as in not captured) whale and sea lions, in August of 1989.



On day two we headed up towards Port Alberni. We went to an old growth forest. I think it was called MacMillan Park; a provincial park named after the famous logging company who once owned the property. MacMillan decided to give it back to the province as a gift to the people of Canada. For what ever their reasons, there now still stands some of the oldest and largest trees alive today in Canada.



	Some of those trees have a diameter of well over ten feet. It reminded me of pictures I had seen of the Redwoods in Northern California, breathtaking! Even Darrell's two daughters seemed awed by those majestic stands of timber. I suddenly remembered a clear-cut I had seen on our return trip from Alaska. It was on one of the many Islands we had passed on that last full day through the Inside Passage. How stark and wounded that island had looked! As we walked along the paths on that hot Saturday, the shade of those trees cooled us and I felt as though we had somehow been transported back in time, a time when man respected nature!




That Friday evening we all went out to a waterfront trail, known as the Nanaimo Sea-walk: A long leisurely path that begins at a large public parking lot. As we strolled along the water-front across from Gabriola Island, we saw plenty of small vessels and sea-planes jockeying for space between the two islands.



There are two water taxis, one to Protection Island, and one that serves Newcastle Island. But only Gabriola is accessible by regularly scheduled B.C. Ferry service.



	Further along, children were crab fishing off the dock, and many others playing on the jungle-gyms, swings, and slides that were abundant in the park.



Parents and children alike, bicycled and roller-skated through the many paths that crisscrossed the water-front park.



	There is plenty of history for sightseers along the way too!



We finally reached what appeared to be a miniature island in the midst of the docks, upon which they had built a circular restaurant. The restaurant, which is known as The Lighthouse, rests on stilts fastened to the floor of the tidal seabed. It is accessible by a bridge from the Nanaimo sea-walk path.



The food was great, but the wind had come up and we had selected one of the many tables that where situated outside; so that we might enjoy the dock-side atmosphere. Unfortunately none of us has thought to bring along jackets; so the cool sea breeze soon made us uncomfortable, and the restaurant lost some of its charm!



	During our walk back from the restaurant, we discovered a swing designed especially for the physically challenged. I was surprised to learn that Nadine had never been on a swing in all her life; I had never really thought about it before. Well needless to say, once we got her on it, she had a blast. The problem was, we had difficulty trying to talk her out of the swing, once in!



The setup was simple as you can see in the first picture, a U-shaped bar is supported by two chains. The bar ends with a handle, one at each end so that a care-giver can assist in making it swing and/or to help stop it. The person on the swing, sits on a very deep chest-high strap, is held in place by two wide Velcro straps, one around the chest, the other around the waist and legs.



We found the perfect ending to that wonderful day; When we walked back after dinner, we discovered a secluded area where locals and tourists alike, congregated to enjoy a live band. We had ice cream from a local vendor and concluded that delightful evening with some lively music.



A very special mention goes to my brother Darrell, who edited this and helped me with historical facts. Thanks Darrell!
http://www.nanaimobulletin.com/ http://www.gonanaimo.com/ http://www.city.nanaimo.bc.ca/